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Coronavirus in the U.S.: Live Coverage of Its Impact - The New York Times

Chances are good you have some dried beans on hand, and this is a great thing. Especially since one basic recipe works for so many kinds of beans — from red beans to white cannellini to black turtle beans. I used that very recipe for a pot of red beans simmered in my electric pressure cooker.

First, I gave mine a soak, though it’s not strictly necessary. But I think soaking helps them cook more evenly, and soaking them in salted water speeds up cooking because the salt breaks down the bean skins. Anywhere from 4 to 12 hours does the trick, then you can drain and rinse them. But if time is an issue, don’t soak.

To cook the beans, you can use a regular pot or a pressure cooker (electric or stovetop). Add the beans and cover them with water. If you’re using a regular pot, add enough water to cover the beans by about 2 to 3 inches. If using a pressure cooker, add less water, more like 1 ½ to 2 inches to cover the beans. Add a drizzle of oil and whatever aromatics you like.

To my pound of red beans, I added 6 peeled garlic cloves, a halved onion and a celery stalk. Herbs add depth; I had a bay leaf, but a few thyme or rosemary sprigs or a pinch of those herbs dried would have been just as good.

[For more on cooking beans, see Melissa Clark’s guide.]

Now — and, to me, this is the most important part — add enough salt to make the cooking water taste like the sea. If using a regular pot, simmer the beans anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 hours, depending on what variety you used, how old they were and whether or not you soaked them. Check on them periodically, adding water if the level gets too low (as in, lower than the beans.) They will be tender but not mushy when done, and still look intact, without splitting or falling apart. For the pressure cooker, the timing is 5 to 50 minutes at high pressure. (Smaller beans will take 5 to 10 minutes, while larger beans, like chickpeas, may take up to 35 or 40 minutes.) Let the pressure release naturally.

If you want to add a Parmesan rind, or a hunk of smoked or cured meat, to the bean pot, you should — it gives the beans great flavor. I had a chunk of last summer’s kielbasa in the freezer that needed a home, so I threw it into the pot.

That’s it. I always garnish with a drizzle of oil, a sprinkle of flaky salt and red-pepper flakes and any herbs I may have around, and call it a day. Grated or crumbled cheese and crisp bacon are two other options, as is a fried egg, which, after all, makes everything better. And as always, feel free to serve this with rice, polenta, or other grains, or some crusty bread, to round it out.

In this series, Melissa Clark will teach you how to cook with pantry staples. Check back Tuesday for another installment.

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Coronavirus in the U.S.: Live Coverage of Its Impact - The New York Times
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